Sunday, October 9, 2011

DAY 7 - 125 km

I am currently in the only bar in Ventosa. It is lime green, with wood paneling, brightly lit, with five groups of four ranging from age 50-80 all giving looks to me and Alex as we use free internet on ancient computers. I´m surprised I can even type this out...

Today is Day 7 and that marks one week on the Camino.
The camino has so far been many different colours and sizes taking us over all different types of landscapes. There has been white roads, orangy red, black, grey and purple. (Yesterday was purple rocks, loved it!) Dirt trails through bits of forest and short stretches on actual road. Sometimes the path is wide enough for one car and sometimes it´s so narrow only one can pass at a time. We follow yellow arrows and shells in yellow on blue. The arrows can be stickers, spray paint or a collection of rocks pointing the way. We wake up each morning and have faith that we´ll be shown the way. The arrows can be smaller than my hand or as long as my leg. The arrows and shells can be up high, down low, painted on the side of a rock, meshed into a fence, in the stone on the ground, all types. Each province has it´s own version of the shell and guiding signs. For a laugh we usually shout out "please, I need a sign!!" and then we find one a minute later. (hehehe) What really keeps us on our toes are the albergues and bars that want you to stop at them instead of following the path and they paint yellow arrows to direct you towards them.
We´ve walked under forest cover, near brooks and streams. There have been dirt trails with gravel and rocks leading up giant hill/mountain sides with big drops bellow. We have walked by viniards and eaten the best grapes I´ve ever tasted.
Sometimes we walk with others, and always notice their packs before their gender or nationality. The common questions "What do you do?" "Where did you go to school?" and "What´s your name?"  have been replaced by:
"Where are you going?" (we´re going to Finistere)
"Where are you walking tonight?" (How many k and what town)
"Where did you start?" (Some people do the walk in chuncks over many years)

We have met many people, a bonus of having a longer time to complete and a slower pace than most.

Sometimes there are stretches where no one is around as far as the eye can see and we shout realy loudly and let our voices become food for the wind. It has been so hot and sunny and so cool and windy. And this is just the first week.

Almost forgot to mention the food!!!! Alex and I eat sooooo well. We have a great big breakfast then a bunch of snacks then a great lunch, snacks and dinner. Sometimes second dinner... Today we sat on some castle ruins to eat our spinach, chickpea, vegetable salad with envious eyes from other pilgriams. We´ve found a lot of gluten free options that we carry with us from big cities and I have been eating a lot of eggs and tuna. One night there was no kitchen available or store...

The conversation went like this:
Sam "I don´t know if I can do this"
Alex "Well do what feels right..."
Sam "Does chicken usually have veins in it"
Alex "Well, it´s not a perfectly shaped breast, yup there's a bone..."
Sam slowly takes first bite
Sam "Wow, this is so good!"

The restaurant menu was pork, chicken or beef so yes everyone... I ate chicken. It was grown in the owners friends´ backyard, so a ´happy hen´. We also got some pears from his backyard.I´ve been gearing myself up for this for a few months but no, this does not mean I´m going full on meat eater.

Tomorrow marks our first day of 25k!!

Write comments so I know I have more than 5 readers!! Please :)

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Lorca

So this morning we woke up in Lorca. We made our goal of leaving the Albergue before first light. Seeing the stars and not having an intense heat on us was great. We realized though that without light we had no idea if we were on the right path. At a crossroad with no arrows visible through the darkness we just unrolled a tarp and had breakfast as we watched the sun rise over some Spanish hills. It was a beautiful way to start the day. When the sun was up high enough to see we walked back and found where we had missed a little tiny trail branching off the main one.
Later on in the day we passed a once in a lifetime spot, a free wine fountain. There´s a Spanish rhyme telling you to fill your cup and enjoy but filling up your bottle you´ll have to pay. The fountain has two taps, one for water, one for wine. Another pilgriam group happened to have two extra cups to share with us. So we filled up and made the rest of our day a little slower.

Last night´s stay at Jose Ramon´s Albergue in Lorca was our favorite so far. We had a private room with a balcony and a great sleep. He was so helpful with everything. In Lorca there were three places to choose from. As we passed by the first with a line full of people we already find annoying we found Milu!! Milu is a Shnauszer we´ve come to love. We really didn´t think we´d see her again but there she was! She´s been a great treat to see everyday. Milu was going on to the next town but we were done walking with 17k under our belts. The sign advertising the Albergue said free internet, laundry and smiles, keep your humour handy! So that´s what made the decision for us.

Our dinner yesterday was so great. We went to the local supermarket and being tired were pretty appauled that they didn´t sell vegetables but we realized on our walk back that everyone has their own personal vegetable garden. So the owners gave us a perplexed look when we asked. We did get from the shop, local (4km away) sheep cheese, eggs and wine. They ran to the back and gave us garlic from their own kitchen. We also picked up some tomatoe sauce and mushrooms that we added to the gluten free pasta made out of corn that Alex has been carrying since Pamplona. (when you cary everything on your back, even pasta matters)

no time to edit!
xo

Monday, October 3, 2011

Pamplona Albergue

A man with a flashlight at his chin lighting his face came over to our beds and said "Feliz Cumpliaños, Feliz Cupliaños, Feliz Cumpliaños" to wake up his friend in the bottom bunk. Poor Alex did not realize that ment ´Happy Birthday´ He did not seem to care that it was still shy of 6am. (I don´t think I´ve ever really heard her swear so much) Ear plugs were my saviour for a great nights sleep but they could not keep out that kind of wake up call. Alex saw them later, maybe 6:15am, dancing around and realized they were the crazy perky morning people. My sleeping bag was a great investment, I was toasty warm.

We got to Pamplona about 5pm yesterday to a very nice albergue. It´s huge, fits about 100 people. It´s nice and clean with internet and free laundry. Alex and I stumbled upon the kitchen area early and nievily thought we were the only ones who cared about it. After a great dinner alone up there we came back a few hours later for tea and were assalted by a diverse mix of cultures preparing dinners. There was an asian group at the back doing their thing, communal sharing of greens and meat. The Spanish table ready with tablecoth, wine, water in a coca cola bottle, bread basket. They didn´t find those things in the kitchen so they have to be carrying that on their backs. Then two girls about our age who looked as though this is the first meal they had to prepare on their own. We did not get a relaxing tea but found ourselves huddled in a corner sharing a spoon as different noisy people ran back and forth. 

Our Pilgrims credential passport will say we started in Pamplona but we actually started before Huarta. We initially wanted to start at St. Jean Pied de port but when I found out my cousin Maribel lived right on the camino just a few km outside of Roncesvalles we jumped on the chance to start up there. Since we are going to Finistere (the once end of the world) we will be doing over 800km even with starting a bit later on the trail.

Being at Maribel & Jose´s house was such a great way to start the trail, Jose actually grew up near Santiago and was able to share so many neat facts and beliefs about it. He said that once we finish the camino and walk under the cathedral and do our confession and take the bread, then we basically get a pass direct to heaven. Not having had my communion I´m technically not allowed to take the bread so, no pass to heaven even with all the walking... shucks.

Maribel made us a great dinner after taking us for a walk around San Sebastian (it was like summer and I got to wet my feet in the Atlantic). Then Oct 3rd Jose helped with mailing our luggage to Alumñecar. The whole 20kilos of mostly mine and some of alex´s stuff only cost us 13,90€ and my computer was less than 30€ on priority post. After dealing with Canada post I figured I was in for $100 expense.
Jose also helped with the final push out of the car, we were both eager to start the walk and only got slightly lost twice so far. Blister-free and gearing up for day two.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

On the train

So, as it turns out Paris is not so conducive to sleeping. Since I've gotten here my longest sleep has maybe been 6hrs. I'm currently over tired and on a train to Spain with Alex by my side eating 'happiness seeds' from 'Smile-inducing British snacks'
We had a great time in Paris although sadly Nuit Blanch Paris was an epic fail. The teeny tiny streets were just packed solid of people. I guess that's what happens when every hotel in Paris is booked full. (A fun fact we found out by booking the last somewhat reasonably priced room just the night before.)

Apparently it is common in french to say 'nuit blanche' meaning sleepless night

Which I feel confident to say today as Alex and I stayed up till the wee hours packing our Camino packs. WOW! I think ignorance was playing a major part in making this journey happen. Looking at the 20km broken down each day and the severity of leaving everything behind for 40days save the pack we carry on our back seems a little daunting.

40 Days WITHOUT
- cell phone
- laptop/daily internet
- make-up
- anything more than 2/3 changes of clothes
- regular shampoo (we have an all-in-one soap for handwash, hair and the rest)
- pillow
- movies, tv, music
- social engagements
- planning
- loved ones
- distractions from ourselves
- favorite foods
- smoothies, supplements etc.
- and probably things we didn't even realize

Looking at what you are about to pack and having someone ask to make sure you need everything you're taking makes you see your insecurities and your comforts.

I'm getting a bit of tightness in my chest realizing that the journey starts tomorrow after a good nights rest tonight. We hope we like it but we acknowledge its going to be hard.

Some of the things that are not essential that I'm bringing are:
- voice recorder
- pencil crayons (mini set)
- cribbage board
- kobo book reader

I'm happy with the size of my pack but its still heavy Alex and I both weigh in at 10kilos

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

oh lala Paris

It's been amazing weather in Paris, it's better than summer with clear skies and a consistent 25-26 C

After a day of walking around and having coffee I went back to my hostel for a siesta and got invited by new roommates, Steph and Micaela to a place nearby: the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur. It's truly a great view. There, you are able to see all of Paris. On the way up we saw a 'Next Top Model' van for (maybe?) Russia with a nearby photo shoot being done on the carousel. On our way back down when all was clear we took some 'model' photo's of our own.

Later that night I took the gals to a bar that was recommended to me, marlusse et lapin, at montmartre. Steph pointed out that it was in the 18th district, the exact district you're not supposed to go to as it's 'red light' but all the reviews were good and it was four of us together. (Daniela who is now in Barcelona joined us after a hostel meal of instant dinner)
It was a Super Bock time! 
With 3euro beers and a free shot, vintage sewing machine on a table, bed turned into a bench by middle partition. We had a good laugh at the sexy shops on our way back to hostel-home.

Yesterday I read a french paper with my coffee and took a wrong/right turn onto Glamour avenue where all the amazing fancy shops are. I've decided you can tell what kind of area you are in by looking at the price of shoes. Here there was an average of 5,000e for shoes and 15,000e for a purse. I didn't go inside as it was such a nice day just to window shop and really I am very accident prone and have a fear of breaking something if I try it on for fun. I wrote down shops to fill my pinterest with later and did stop into HermesA highlight of my day was being followed into a sandwich shop by a fashion student who asked how I did my hair, who then pointed me to the Colette a very cool design shop where all up-and-comers want to have displays. (For you Torontonians it's like Holts meets Urban Outfitters on Queen)
It's Fashion week in Paris and you have to be invited... so if anyone has an invite just laying around I'd be happy to take it off your hands.

Later we took Daniela up on her recommendation of wine in front of the Eiffel Tower which was a check mark on the Must do in Paris experiences. Before I blinked there was a group of twelve of us from all over the world watching the light show, enjoying good 3euro wine.

Well after midnight some of us sought after hours food and I'm happy to report theres a falafel shop just five minutes from the hostel that I sniffed out. (Complete with an after-hours bar a few doors south)

a bientot xox

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Paris Finalement

So I'm in Paris I'm just kind of shaking my head a lil and laughing.

Here's my day so far:

As I was on the metro (from Charlles du Galle to Gare du nord) a young, brown french man came into the metro car with an orange box that turned out to be a big speaker complete with a wireless mic. He sang some very popular Spanish songs that I recognize. (It took me a while to realize he was singing Spanish though, so try to imagine the accent...) With a pre-recorded track, almost a mixed karaoke back-up. It was so bad it was good. I kind of wish he had a cd. Very movie moment of a soundtrack as I watched Paris through my window.

Made it to the hostel all good and well. Staying at Le Regent Hostle Montmarte. I changed into my dress because the weather is amazing today. What do I find outside once I'm changed and all ready to go? THE FLEA MARKET! Directly in front of the hostel!
I came to Paris on a Sunday years back, with the intention of meeting up with Micheline and going to the flea market. There's something about them I just love and find charming. It didn't end up working out last time though, even though I planned and planned it just didn't work out that day. This I didn't even plan and its exactly what I would have asked for.

Best find: Black lace badminton rackets

Just took a break from the market for lunch and I happily stumbled upon a cheap sandwich and coffee shop with free wi-fi.

so far so good!

Ps. Flight was smooth sailing in the sky. I commandeered a window seat that was three free seats in a row. I had a pillow and sleeping mask courtesy of Kate and Jus (thanks!). Plus I already saw the movie 'Water for Elephants' with Derek a few months back. No distractions, slept well.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

"If you love the Toronto Public Library, you need to come to her defense right now!"

I just signed this petition and hope all my friends will do the same.





Having libraries around while I was growing up kept me out of trouble. It was a safe place where I could do my homework, read, and go on the internet when I wasn't able to do so at home. If it wasn't for access to the public libraries of our city, I don't know if I would have made it through high school. I spent most of my spare time in the library during my adolescence. I always find comfort and knowledge in them.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Flight Comics Vol 5



Last night I finished Flight Comics Volume Five
(click the link for a great preview)
These were a great introduction to graphic novels and I gobbled up 5 volumes right away. It also helps that most of them involve some kind of flight and I love planes and flying. I've definitely opened up to 'the graphic novel' as a genre through this collection of works. They were such cute comics, with great illustrations with such variety from story to story. The link is a great preview of everything they have to offer. I think these make a wonderful gift.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Women of HOPE

I absolutely love this powerful song.
I saw Morely a few years ago at the 'Global Health and Innovation Conference' hosted by Unite for Sight an amazing organization. There are volunteers that work in places like Ghana, Hunduras, and India with local eye doctors to gain support from the community and to help as many people as effectively as they can.
Something I never thought about before I came across Unite for Sight is the effect blindness has on a community. I did not know that there are simple eye infections caused by poor sanitation that are easily curable but go untreated and cause blindness worldwide. In a situation where one family member becomes blind, another now has to dedicate their life to the care of that person. So because of a simple problem that could have been easily cured two people are now unable to help with the growth of the community.
This whole venture was started by the amazing and inspiring Jennifer Staple. For me she's a celebrity, I got to shake her hand and say hello at the conference!

I also got to shake the hand of the beautifully spirited Morely, who was inspired to write this song by the words of Aung San Suu Kyi.

"Aung San Suu Kyi, living under house arrest, for her peaceful protest. When her people asked her for a message she said 'If you're feeling helpless, help someone'. "