What a doozy

Wow, today, September 24th marks the two year anniversary of jumping on that first one way plane ticket. I'm closing that chapter, the two year long journey, and I feel like I'm losing a part of myself. I accomplished things I desperately wanted, I found things I didn't know I needed, and made connections that will last a lifetime. To anyone who's considering dropping everything to chase a dream, I support that decision and wish you the time of your life. 

Sunset in Panama, Bocas del Toro

For a sense completion to this period I bought a round trip ticket for a visit to Toronto. I may take other short trips but I will stay living in Thunder Bay for a time, to live a quiet life and write. Write about my travels, some short stories, and other such things. I still have some blog posts to catch up on, like moving to Thunder Bay, the epic road trip with Jenn, and what it's like to move to Northern Ontario.

stand up paddle boarding with Angus

I can't help but feel a little startled by this pause. Just five months ago I was living in Panama with 'snorkeling' and 'jungle walk' on my to-do list. Now it's 'laundry' and 'clean the kitchen'. Three months ago I was living in a tent with my nightly check for ticks and night by a fire. Now it's checking that the door is locked and blowing out a few candles. A month ago I was on a road trip and didn't know where I was going to sleep or what State I was going to be in next. Now it's a trusty bed and a scheduled work week.

Sunset in Panama

It's true about the human condition, we can become accustomed to anything. I normalized the traveling lifestyle such that getting back to the norm is foreign. It's nice though, and Albert Einstein said "a quiet life stimulates the creative mind." which is just the environment I was seeking to focus on my writing.

Paris, photo credit Jenn

So far it's been a battle to write and set up a new apartment. My mind already wandering to living in Italy, backpacking in Thailand, and exploring New York. Spain calls, France tugs at my heart, Panamanian sunsets sit behind my eyelids...

So my friends, this two year stint of only buying one way tickets is officially at a close. It's a time to replenish funds, relive through writing, enjoy having my own apartment again and who's kidding who - planning the next adventure.

Bloggers Block

So I've had a case of bloggers block over the past weeks. Not for lack of things to say, but really unsure of where to start...

I can tell you about the vine snake that wrapped itself around a nest so that the mama bird wrangled all of her birdy friends to try to annoy it out of the tree. How I ended up grabbing the snake and taking it away with a kayak paddle, to make an alliance of birdy friends...

I can tell you about celebrating the beaux's birthday in Bocas town, meeting two of his awesome friends that showed up as a surprise from Costa Rica, and trying wake boarding on a surf board for the first time...

I can tell you about the amazing weather we've had, absolutely perfect clear blue skies, glassy clear water, and how I enjoyed it all to myself for a few days, working hard... on my tan ;)

Angus trying to take over my hammock when I was in Bocas town

I can tell you about the giant shift in the staff, and the new found excitement to learn English, so that Sue and I are constantly pouring over books, verbs, and odd pronunciations...

I can tell you about how I snapped at someone I love very much, and who I hope is out of my life forever. How that has made me re-evaluate my plans here in Panama, and intrigued me to give another part of the globe a try. How is it I never know where I'll be next...

I can tell you about how very long Anna Karenina is, and how I read Carrie Fisher's Wishful Drinking in one sitting just to mix it up a little, and then really wanted a martini...

I can also tell you about how absolutely grateful I am to be a part of things here at Casa Cayuco. I am never left wanting, never asked too much, and always left feeling appreciated. My cup is never empty, my tummy always full, and the laughter keeps on coming...

Actually, that's what I want to tell you about most, so stay tuned for "The torture of being spoiled" and what living out here has really done to me!

Sometimes even hummingbirds get stuck

So tonight I was a little angry-upset. Yup, even on a beautiful island you're allowed to be upset. Well, I went upstairs to my room and flopped on the bed thinking of the online chats that got me into this funk, when buzzing and bumping around me was a beautiful little hummingbird. I have the most open room on the property; I have one full wall, two half walls and one "wall" is actually just a waist-high wood railing. A hummingbird made it's way in and somehow can't figure out how to get out, or doesn't want to leave. I got out of bed and watched it fly around, perching itself on the wood rafters and the close line, then zooming around again. I turned off the lights and still it hasn't left.
I was wondering as I watched this hummingbird fly high with the roof around it, but just 1 foot below has open space waiting for it to fly through, if that could be a metaphor for problems in life.
Could it mean:

a) when we're in a problem that's all we see, not the open space/solutions that surround us

b) sometimes we can bash out heads against the wall, but all we really need to be free is to get outside

c) sometimes we aim our resolutions too high

d) sometimes a there is no higher place to go, there is no high road option, for a problem

e) absolutely nothing, it's just a pretty hummingbird to distract me so that I forget what I was ever in a funk about.
                   ... thanks lil hummingbird

Air Panama, a Pig, and lovely Lemons

Well, it seems I'm overdue for a post. As Jenn would say, I have a huge case of Normalization. I've had a request to write more about my day to day events; what do I do out here?  No, I do not just sit in a hammock all day, but that is how I like to start my day. There's nothing for me quite like making time to read in the morning, with a coffee or tea, listening to lapping water. With my new Kobo Mini I'm able to pick Anna Karenina back up and wow, that Tolstoy knows how to tell a story.

Yesterday was very busy. My day started with buying a newly slaughtered 60lbs pig before 8am. A lovely Panamanian had raised her pig and was ready to sell it to Sue's kitchen. It doesn't get more free range and local than walking distance on a an island trail. I asked Sue if she needed help cutting it up.
"Oh no, it's as easy now as skinning a chicken."
"Actually Sue, I don't know anything about skinning chickens. I was vegan for a few years, and most of the time living on my own, I'm vegetarian."
My grandmother's sister used to own a butcher shop/Polish deli, and my general curiosity of 'how -to', brought me into the kitchen. Cruz commented that it looked like a cooking show, as Sue explained her process, while beautifully separating the main pieces of meat, and instructing Sela on the seasoning.

After that I tried to dye a few things turquoise. Then started the process of carefully peeling without pith, and juicing, 20 lemons, (a rare fruit all the way from David, 4hrs away). The peels went into vodka to make lemonchellos. The fresh juice went to fresh lemonade and cocktails. I checked on cabins for new guests, and filled some gaps that were noticed. I helped at the bar with dinner service as Lloyd was still in Bocas awaiting the new arrivals. Sue kept here ears to the sky, hoping to hear a plane that was supposed to be arriving around 5pm, but didn't pass until 7:30pm.

Air Panama, the airline responsible for delaying tourists coming to Bocas since 2006, pushed the limits on yesterdays delays. Telling passengers that 'the plane broke down' (which probably means the staff was on a break at the bar), turned an hour plane trip into a two and a half hour delay, is not a fun stop for any traveler, especially when sun and beach and good food are calling. Since the Bocas 'airport' got lights, Air Panama has used that as an excuse to make planes even farther off their mark. You'd think an airline that has the same two daily flight times everyday, for years, would have figured out how to be on time, not the case. Their excuses get more colorful, and people living here have gotten used to just waiting around Bocas town, and only walking to the airport once they hear the plane pass overhead.

Normally I'm not fussed when planes are delayed, things do happen every now and again, but arriving late to the island of Bocas, means that tourists have to then get to their destinations in the dark. For Casa Cayuco that means driving the boat in the dark. Lloyd is a pro at it, but that doesn't mean it's fun. The boat has to slow down so no one in a cayuco (hollowed out tree canoes) who is night fishing, with no lights, don't get hit or hurt, adding more travel time to the already 45minute ride. Not to mention newcomers don't get to see the collection of mangroves they pass through. Thankfully last night was a beautifully starry night with some good bio-luminescence. It's really unfortunate though that Air Panama can't get their act together, no matter how many complaints are filed, see Air Panama is killing me and their customer satisfaction reviews, a whopping 1.3 out of 5.

So those are most of the highlights of yesterday, gotta get back to it.

The Dirt Under My Nails

Being back home in Toronto, sitting with my dad at the dinner table, he commented on the dirt under my fingernails. I let out a big laugh. I had just been admiring how clean my nails looked, probably the cleanest in months. A few days before I had been talking with Sue about how hard it it to keep nails nice in the jungle.

Being in the city for 6 weeks, my nails were nicely kept. I didn't even really need to make an effort, as there was nothing around to make them dirty. Yesterday afternoon, I looked at myself in the mirror. My hair unkempt, despite having put it in a tidy braid a few hours before. My white shirt was stained, despite having worn it without harm for a few summers in the city, and only having it on for a few hours in the jungle. My legs were smeared with mud even though I washed them off before coming upstairs, and my nails... My nails were black with dirt, and I was happy.

When the clouds parted for a little while, Sue had taken me through the back trail, to pick some water apples for the evenings dessert (imagine a radish, shaped like a pear, that tastes like a water logged granny smith apple). It had been raining a lot the day before, and in spurts yesterday, so a part of the trail was ankle deep, swampy mud. When we got to the tree, Sue found the large stick that passers by use for poking the fruit off the high branches, that can be found nearby most fruit trees. I felt like a wide receiver on a football team, waiting for the ball to drop. I was standing at the ready as apples were falling from ten foot high branches. I had to lunge on a few occasions, trying to catch the apple that came loose, before it could drop into the mud and fallen fermented fruit below. Once we bagged enough for the nights desert, we left the giant tree, and headed back to Casa Cayuco.

The dessert was absolutely delicious, Sue turned the water apples into an apple crisp with a warm caramel sauce. There was a special bowl with a sparkler for a special birthday guest. Some of the guests stayed around the table after dinner for the birthday, and we all played a hilarious game of Cards Against Humanity (we've only played the game once before with guests). It was a great way to be welcomed back to Casa Cayuco, and I can't wait to see what happens next!

Trading city lights for starry nights

Yesterday I was once again on a plane, taking me away to Panama. I'm excited about this unexpected trip. I had it in my head that I was going to be back in Toronto for a long while, and it ended up just a trip long enough to spend quality time with my family and a few close friends.

It wasn't quite enough time to get back in touch with everyone that I had intended to see. It was very nice to not feel too rushed and cram everyone it all at once though. I do feel really bad though, about not getting to connect with more people.

The thing I missed most, was doing nothing with people. Having coffee and going on errands with my step-mom, having dinner and hanging out with my dad, babysitting and playing with my aunt and uncle's kids, movies and drives with my grandfather, etc. All the day to day things that you're just happy to do with the people you love. Obviously all the moments are made sweeter because there's a close expiration date.

The weather wasn't unbearable, probably also due to the leave date. I still love snow, and will fall in fresh snow anytime, to make snow-angels, when no ones around. After seeing the snow, slush, and ice, I was ready for a place I could enjoy outdoors, and walk around barefoot. I'm not very connected to outdoor winter sports in Toronto, by that I mean it's hard to just walk out your front door and stay outside. You have to drive far to get to a good ski hill, shuttle downtown to go skating, venture up north to go cross-country skiing or snow-shoeing.

Whenever I was outside, Toronto felt bare. It's become too expensive, and NetFlicks all to alluring. Never before have I seen 12 cabs huddled together at a red light, all empty, on a Friday night. During regular office hours there seems to be a big flow of people, pedestrian traffic handled in a organized fashion by the TTC, so people are in the city, but everyone is just hibernating. Or maybe everyone's just watching hockey because the leafs are actually playing well and winning games!!

So, I will miss hockey, the snow, Canadian's, family and friends, but the islands of the archipelago of Bocas del Toro, give me a certain happiness that I can't pin on one thing, just the whole rainforest experience.

Happy Birthday Jenn!

It's Jenn's birthday!! Which led me to create the ridiculous video below. I had some up close sloth footage, that I had been saving to share on her birthday. Then I finally read her facebook events page and realized she had a great request for her birthday this year. Option One was to go to her party and dance to fantasticly funky beats all night long. Her brilliance was with her Option Two, allowing her friends from all over the world participate in the dance party! The facebook event read: 

If, for some unfortunate reason, you cannot join me in person, send me a video or photo of your best dance move. You have a week to practice. Don't let me down. Bonus points for groups. Oh, and tell me what song you were jamming to. It will be the playlist of the (quarter of a) century.

So naturally, I thought a sloth paired with some monkeys and a turkey, all grooving to a k-os song was the way to go...

I love the jungle but does the Jungle love me? Part 2

Continued from I love the jungle but does the Jungle love me

I was out in Bocas and its archipelago for a few months, and I feel pretty adapted to jungle ways. I know how to read most solar monitors. I can listen and guess the amount of inches of rainfall. I've bailed the boat in the middle of the night, and brought it back when the tide broke an anchor chain. I've moved a damn heavy propane tank. I walked around barefoot pretty much anywhere except on town pavement.

Jungle-3 Pride-1

I've adjusted to the jungle sounds and let all the crazy chirps and howls fade into the background. Being awake at 6, I listen to the birds and the lapping sound of water while I watch the sun come into the room. I only wake up now if it's too silent, or there's a cool breeze.

Jungle-3 Sleeping in-2

As my bug bites started to fade, new ones weren't as much of a worry. I've learned the simple sensory factor, if you feel something moving down it's probably a hair or water droplet and if it's a bug it will be off you soon. If it's crawling up, then it's in need of a slap, as it could be an ant or other biting bug. I changed to long pants and long shirts at sunset and sit under a fan, or use bug spray starting at 4:30. I don't get as strong a reaction to the bites anymore either.

When I was in the city of David for a night, I realized I'd rather have the sound of waves through open air cabins with the occasional cockroach and spider, than a sealed house with none of the above. I love living with half walls and windows unencumbered with screens or glass, living with the bugs and birds in an odd harmony.

Jungle-3 Bug harmony zone-3

Casa Cayuco

Sometimes it's hard for me to describe things while I'm right in them. Describing takes a certain amount of stepping out and looking in. Something I haven't really had a desire to do in a place like this. I like to be 'in it', feel the present moment. Now that I'm about to be on my plane home (see count down) I've been able to see things from the outside perspective, and realized I haven't really described where I am.

A photo my mom took while visiting

The property of Casa Cayuco is a very special place. I've never lived so close to nature, with my accommodations having no full walls. Sometimes there is just a railing where a wall would normally be, with the option of lowering a partition if it happens to be raining with a wind. There are no screens on the windows, it is not in any way a sealed house. Even the bathroom doesn't have four full walls, the shower stops at chest level so you have a full view of the jungle from almost all sides, at all times. The tallest walls still leave almost a foot before reaching the roof to let air pass through, helping to keep the rooms a little cooler and well ventilated. It might surprise you that the kitchen is equally open. Don't worry, every food item after being opened is immediately sealed and put away to not attract bugs. The only place you'll really see a screen is for the specially made fruit and vegetable cabinet.

The bugs are an attraction themselves. Not the usual ones I'm squeamish over in the city. Here the bugs are talked about and pointed out and given funny names, like 'the doctor bug'. Most are crazy colours and can be eaten by something else right before your eyes. The mosquito nets protect you while you sleep but is made better with a gecko to capture any intruders.

The ocean doesn't stop at the beach, the sound carries to almost every corner of the property. As you're going to sleep the swell usually pics up on the beach nearby so you can usually hear those waves even if the front beach is calm. The water is a light blue with lots of turquoise. Looking forward you can see the mainland with mountains far in the distance. Looking out and a little to your left you can see the islands of Zapatillas that is about an hour's ride for a strong kayak-er.

The beach is white sand that gets raked almost every day to clear any debris the tide may have brought the day before. Occasionally big conch shells find their way to shore, so the dock and property have become decorated with them. One large conch shell had the top point cut off so it can be used as the trumpet that lets everyone know a meal is hot and ready. You can comfortably walk 45 minutes along the white sandy beach if you go to the right (passing by an old 'survivor panama' award challenge location), but have to go a little inland on the trails if you go to the left. Palm trees are everywhere and it's highly recommended that you don't stand or walk directly under where the coconuts may fall.

Coconuts are the only thing to fear here, because you don't want one falling on your head (highly unlikely). Anything that may bite you will only give mild irritation that can be tempered with a cream or antihistamine. Fresh coconuts are basically the only thing you can get whenever you want it, right away. Here, at Casa Cayuco, coconuts are shredded and toasted to use in an amazing granola. The stray ones that fall are usually collected by the Ngobe women and fed to their pigs on nearby properties.

The moon and stars are breathtaking, especially when the moon is full, like tonight. It lights up the island as if someone left the lights on, and there's no need for a flashlight, unless you feel like walking deeper into the jungle. The opposite of that when the moon is a sliver, the darkness eats any light you try to put into it.

The rain in unlike anything I've ever experienced. It's warm rain for the most part and usually falls straight down. I'm used to sideways rains that are cold and make life dreary. Here there can be a few sun showers and after a morning rain all the colours are more vivid and lush. The rainforest thrives and all the birds come back chattering to each other.

The birds are vibrant neon hues. They can camouflage by being brown and yellow, vivid green or bright blue. The butterflies follow the same colour scheme and can flit along your path at any time. The hummingbirds are everywhere and there's more than just one type. Lizards bask in the sun and are just as diverse. The occasional nonpoisonous snake can be spotted if you have a good eye. I've been lucky enough to have a vine snake cross my path, but that's pretty rare. The two bully's are actually sweethearts and they have an insatiable need for love (see photo above).

The staff are a whole other wonderful element. Back home the 'who' is so important, it can make or break an experience for most people. Can you imagine living on the same island as all the people in your office? It may be hard to believe, but the crew that works together here is a team. It's hard to pick a favorite person, but I think Paulina's smile makes me happy every time I see her. Everyone jokes around with each other and it's an environment that everyone seems happy to be at. Lloyd and Sue are constantly engaging their staff and pushing them to learn, and they obviously appreciate it.

I've recently been able to see the place in action, with guests coming and going all around. It's quite a change from having the whole place to myself. I've gone from seeing no one new for seven weeks, to not quite knowing who will show up on the dock and when. Everyone comes for their own reasons, and so far, it seems that everyone appreciates the break to a true paradise.

The Seductively Sleepy Islands of Bocas del Toro, Panama by Peter Stevenson

I just read this really great article about the town of Bocas (where I'm staying currently) the surrounding archipelago, and even Casa Cayuco (where I just finished my house-sit) by Peter Stevenson, featured this month in Conde Nast Traveler.

The Bliss of the Bocas 
The Seductively Sleepy Islands of Bocas del Toro, Panama  
Columbus landed there. Graham Greene made it on his third try. Now our man in Panama, Peter Stevenson, falls under the laid-back spell of the islands of the Bocas del Toro. Welcome to the Caribbean that time forgot

I stepped blinking into the Panamanian sunshine outside the tiny airport in the Bocas del Toro archipelago and had to blink again. I couldn’t quite believe what I was seeing. In the front yard of a house across the street from the airport exit was the charred fuselage of a small plane very much like the one I had just taken from Panama City. Apparently no one—neither the airport officials, nor the airlines, nor the resort developers hoping to turn the islands of the Bocas del Toro into a Caribbean idyll—had thought to ask the owners of the house to dispose of the wreck. I looked back at the fuselage and thought, At least move it out of view. Or throw a tarp over it—maybe one saying something like welcome to panama.

Read full article here...

Same old, same old.

Everyone gets asked "How's it going?", and once you've fallen into a normal routine you can get by with saying "Oh, just the same old, same old".
You know, the whole waking up, checking the solar voltage while listening to the insane call of a huge male Montezuma Oropendola nearby, making coffee then enjoying it by the water's edge. Taking out two loveable and intelligent bulldogs to the back patch if jungle, and then feeding them a breakfast of eggs and potatoes. Say hello to Seabastian, Piti, and Benjamin, and see what work they're up to for the day. Open up the computer to see what the world outside the island of Bastimentos is up to.

Then look out at the water to decide what kind of day it is. Is it calm and clear enough for a snorkeling trip? Mild waves for a standup paddle board run? Is there a boat anchored to kayak up to? Maybe it's too rainy for all that and it's a writing day or time to curl up with the dogs and a good book or see what projects I can do around the house. Is it scorching sunny and a perfect day to do laundry? Is it a warm cloud covered day, good for a walk to a neighboring property? Maybe I'll go for a swim or eat a coconut.

Time for lunch and I say hello to Cruz or Marta depending on the day and ask them about their week. "Hi Marta, I heard you killed your pig on Monday, how did it go?" Cruz is great conversation while Marta is more timid. I call Marta the ghost as she comes in to work and moves around so quietly I never know when she's arrived and have to go seek her out to say hello.

Some days I go into town for supplies, or have visitors or day trips. I'm usually content to stay just where I am though, and find many little things to pass the day. Then it's sunset on the dock with pelicans and maybe a chat on skype. Dinner for the dogs and myself. A short night walk to the front beach and some moments spent looking up at the stars. I'm either in awe of the brightness of the moon, or in awe of the darkness that eats the light of my flashlight. Some nights it's so dark you can't see your hand in front of your face. Some nights are so bright you can see clearly without any artificial light.

Then I think about the new things I've seen for the day. How many hummingbirds, snakes, butterflies, new bugs and fish crossed my path? Was the last time I saw a monkey really Tuesday? Has it been a whole month since I saw a dolphin jump?

Same old, same old is about to change a lot though. The owners of the house are back, the sit is over and guests are arriving soon. My hermit days are gone, and now I'll be with a bustle of people. On the dock with some wine and catching up of all things we had a very thought provoking conversation about what's next, what's possible in months to come...

I have a ticket home, and I can't commit to anything until I make it back home, make sure my head is screwed on right and see how I feel in a different environment surrounded by people who know me best. There's a strong pull though, maybe my year plus of traveling doesn't actually have to end just yet.

Tracy Chapman, I think I just got way more than one reason...

Dinner, a show of the cycle of life

Friday was a day with all sorts of visitors; A little girl selling bread for 25cents, people from the neighborhood coming to walk the back path, and a fisherman. A fisherman that reeled in a good catch of fish pulled up in his cayuco (a hollowed out tree that looks like a longer canoe). "$1.50/pound" I was told by the workers, who where buying their dinner from him. Seabastian pulled out a good tuna from the bunch and it was gutted right there in the water at the side of the cayuco. I looked at Seabastian and asked "You're helping me cut it, right?". I've never actually cooked fish on my own before. One of the great things about becoming vegetarian when you're younger, all meals are meat free and easy, no need to worry about under-cooking and causing various food poisoning. So, there we were in the kitchen, him slicing the tuna into two fillets. I commented on how pretty the fish looked, "Ai, que bonito" "Es porque se llama bonito. Tambien dice tuna". After the fillets were in a deep dish, the head, spine, and tail had another destination. We walked out towards the back of the property to the freshwater pond. "This goes to the caimans" he said, then threw the bloody remains into the pond, "Shhhhh, wait"he instructed. We stood there looking, me not quite sure I wanted to see what was to happen next. A Caiman quickly came out of his space and I got to watch as it slowly swam towards the fresh food. Dipping itself under the water to find its catch, it's long tail peaked out. I had seen the smaller ones before but never one this big. We just stood their on the very edge of the pond as the fish remains dangled from it's mouth. "You're sure they don't come out of the water?" I asked again.
"They just eat birds that land in the pond and maybe come out at night, maybe"
"But they don't eat humans?"
"Not that I've heard, not the ones here"
The caiman retreated to its home in the back of the pond. The cycle of life has a higher turnover rate in the jungle. I loved that no part of the fish was wasted. I looked up five tuna recipes and adapted one to what I had and knew I liked. I still had some cayanne pepper (A spice I travel with because I hate to be without) which I added to the garlic, onions and coconut oil. When it was time for dinner I put the fillets in a frying pan, three to four minutes each side and it was awesome! I made fish! It's the first time I've eaten every morsel of fish that's on a plate not made by my Abuela. Dinner was really an experience, buying a fish just recently caught from the fisherman, my waste getting happily eaten by another animal and then eating my piece within a few hours of cutting it up. I'm sure I'll be making more fish while I'm out here, especially when it comes fresh right to my "door".

Trip to Zaps

These photos are from the small island called Zapatillas. It was once a coconut plantation and now is a good spot to go on a day trip, swim, and snorkel nearby reefs. In about an hour you can walk slowly through and circle around this little island.

Tree on Zaps 2 extending over the water

Trees growing out of fallen trees. Almost all the tree systems look like that.

Dried coconut husks

Boardwalk through the island

Driftwood on the beach

If you asked me a few months ago

Sunset in September from porch in Panama

If you had told me I'd be walking through the jungle with a dog as my guide, the moon as my light, and a bird call as my warning... I would have thought you crazy... but that was my life a month ago.

If you had told me I'd be living on a boat with a pitbull, snorkeling in secret spots, sitting top deck at night to better count shooting stars... I would have thought you crazy... but that was my life a few weeks ago.

If you had told me I'd be navigating my own little boat through mangroves in the dark, having my next door neighbor an island away, sitting at thanksgiving dinner a continent away via skype and a laptop... I would have thought you crazy... but that was my life a week ago.

If you had told me I'd be all taken care of while taking care of two bulldogs at a resort, learning how to paddle board and taking long walks on a white sandy beach... I would have thought you crazy... but that is my life these next coming weeks. 

'The Aquarium' snorkel spot, early in the morning

I'll just keep saying thanks, and thanks, and thanks again...

Move-in Day

I'm having my good-morning coffee with a different kind of monkey. When I woke up this morning there was a family of white faced monkeys waiting to welcome me to the neighbourhood. They ran off more quickly then the howlers I'm used to but I was happy to see the new face.

Bocas Town view from the dock

Chickens wandering around Bocas town

Yesterday I said goodbye to dolphin bay. Obviously I'll be back. Actually I'll be back as soon as Sunday for the restaurant Rana Azul's Octoberfest party. It will be a steady separation from a place that feels very much like home. I'm about an hour away by boat but the environment is so different it almost feels like a whole other planet. There are white sandy beaches here, two different species of monkeys, red frogs, iguanas and jesus lizards. Not to mention a whole different set of characters.

Off main street towards the fire station, beside La Union is Michael's

Yesterday afternoon I got picked up and went into town where I had a few hours to walk around and get anything I needed. I decided since I was going to be around more people the hole-y wardrobe needed an update. I went on a big shopping spree in town and spent a whopping $22.65. I spent $15 at a second hand shop named Michaels beside the hidden upstairs Tom #2 restaurant, beside la Union. Then at Union I spent $5.15 on new guitar strings, embroidery thread and razors. La Union is the place to get most everything but the sales lady at the counter has a favourite saying "no we don't have that" or rather the Spanish "no hay" even if you just bought it. To top off a 'full day' of shopping (in Bocas even your full grocery list wont take more than an hour) needs a treat. I got a $0.75 empanada at John's Bakery a regular check point for the early morning shopper and spent $1.75 for a double scoop of ice cream at Golden Grill. As traveling by boat in the heat is not conducive to ice cream and it's one of my favourite food groups I try to get some in town when I think of it.

The New Wardrobe: 3 t-shirts, 3 tank tops, 2 long sleeve shirts, 1 linen pants

Then it was a boat ride to Casa Cayuco. I have been looking forward to this for weeks and it's a place I instantly feel comfortable. We arrived in the dark through a sea full of bio luminescence and I hadn't even made it to my cabin when everyone stopped to look at night monkeys with big huge eyes, furry tails and little ears. A rare glimpse and heart melting cute, especially the baby. Then it was a wonderful meal prepared by Sue, a night swim and great sleep.

My computer even matches the chair, it was meant to be!

I'm onto my second coffee and ready for a day of learning with Lloyd and Sue. This is one of those arrangements where I'm not quite sure who's happier. I feel so appreciated for taking this on and so grateful for having this as my new home. If it's possible to be in love with a place this jungle certainly has my heart.

The Snake Charmer by Jamie James

After caring for my neighbors non venomous snake for a few days, catching geckos as food and handling the snake with care I was loaned this book, The Snake Charmer.

This book could not come with a better real life ending, finding a poisonous snake in the jungle! It wasn't me who found it, it was the Herpatologist Carl who lent me the book. When I came up for drinks he had just caught a new snake and we all huddled around at a safe distance to help identify. It ended up being a pit viper and is now safely in the freezer.

The Snake Charmer is an true story of boy interested in snakes who grows up to be one of the leading experts in the world on venomous snakes. Each chapter starts with a blurb on a different snake and throughout the chapter Joe Slowinski usually has some interaction with it.

I loved learning about all the snake facts and getting a glimpse of a world I knew nothing about; someone who turns his passion of catching snakes into a career as a scientist who goes on field expeditions and discovers new spices. I found it fascinating how different snake venom's target different systems. The Russell's viper, most dangerous, actually attacks the pituitary glad and causes it's victim to reverse puberty! The book also goes into the bad wrap snakes get and how it's sad that so many people have ophidiophobia, an abnormal fear of snakes.

Hello & Goodbye

The new house sitters have come and gone. Having recently been surfing myself and having watched 'Surfer, Dude' with Matthew McConaughey, I'm able to better empathize with their 'wanting a surf vacation' situation. On the second day they said "Hey, you didn't tell me the cockroaches were the size of my phone" While laughing I thought that was the best size description. The roaches do range from Nokia to iPhone.

In just three days they realized it was not the job for them. I can't blame them. They are coming to a very different environment than Jenn and I were blessed with. We had a bay full of excited cruisers and a motor boat to get ourselves into town among other things.

As a suggestion to any traveler: if you are going someplace new and staying for a while and making a commitment ASK QUESTIONS. You know what happens when you assume (ass/u/me) Don't go with information from two years ago. A lot can change in two years.  

Jenn and I were so excited to be living in a tree house with no address in the jungle. We absolutely loved our time at Cerro Velero. It was exactly what we were looking for. We made friends that we are eager to keep in touch with and visit with again. The dogs, Gelie and Indie have stollen our hearts. No matter how rustic the house seems to others it was perfect for us. It has been an inconvenience without having a boat but luckily the community here was very generous with us. It's hard to believe that time is already at a close and soon I'll also be saying goodbye to Jenn.

Jenn & I on the Camino Nov 2011

We met someone just the other day who on parting said in a way that warmed our hearts "I hope you miss your plane!" One of the biggest jokes of Bocas apparently is "I'm leaving soon". Jenn and I have floated ideas of other destinations. We're both excited to see where we meet up over the years. Road trip in North America, Horseback in Central America, live in Italy, our original plan of India? Pull a destination out of a hat...

A year since boarding a one way ticket

A year ago today I was repacking my bag for the umpteenth time wondering where my one way ticket would take me. To France, Spain and beyond. Tonight I sit under the stars and a bright moon in a bay on a boat. Today's events I couldn't have foreseen even from yesterday's vantage point. When I woke up this morning I thought I would be going on a trip nearby then waiting to welcome the new house sitters. As the saying goes "If you want to make god laugh, make plans."

Jenn and I have been housesitting for just over two months now. We've had hiccups but it hasn't deterred us from loving the house and our time here in Bocas del Toro. There was one week where we had no boat, no fridge and no internet. We still don't have a boat, our internet is not great but the fridge is on the mend. Its problem seems to be a matter of cleaning the back pipes out regularly from all the bugs that lodge themselves in the back. It's a propane fridge, the first one I've seen but they are very popular here. (A $6.40USD tank of propane lasts about 12 days)

Today I came inland (we're also boat sitting) and walking up the steps at 6:30am heard the Genny running. We hardly ever run the generator because we monitor our power and do laundry on days that are rich in sunlight. We unplug everything when we're not using it so there's no phantom charge and we don't use a lot of water so the water pump doesn't have to work hard and use up the power. As I was walking up the steps I thought maybe Jenn had been keen and started a load of laundry so we could hang it before we left for our day trip and it would be dry for the new house sitters.

That was not the case. A lot of learning happened today. Apparently the house wanted to make sure we learned a lot more about water pressure systems, batteries, generators and the whole system and how it works together. Sometime in the night a switch that is activated by a pressure gauge on a water system stopped working. Instead of turning off the pump kept going sucking so much power that our displays were angry with a red light indicating power was getting dangerously low. Having recently been told the damage that can happen to batteries when depleted we were anxious (to say the least). We called next door to Carl and Mary for advice and to cancel our trip.

I wont bore you with all the other things I learned but after being very sad to leave the day before Jenn and I are ready to embark on other adventures. If only the new house sitters had shown up! I've been a little bummed that the new house sitters aren't as chatty as I would have liked. Particularly after waiting all day and receiving a message just before sundown that they were only in Panama City. I've only had a very short chat two days ago with the newcomers, my favorite question so far was: "Are there bugs?"
To which I replied "yes, it's not a sealed house. There are lizards, geckos and the very occasional scorpion"
I looked up at Jenn and asked "I don't have to mention the cockroaches that are the size of your hand right? Those fall under 'bugs'?"
At least they don't bite or bother, they just hang out on the walls really.

So it's been a really tiring day and I've enjoyed recalling where I was last September 24th. So many new faces, places, changes and learning's. So many airplane rides, boating lessons and land exploration. If you walk out your front door, not sure where you'll end up some interesting things will happen. I guess that one way ticket was just what I needed to see the world of possibilities.

Spoiler alert: I'll be living on a boat!

How I tripped and fell into paradise

I've realized a lot of people are wondering how I stumbled into Panama here's the story…

Treehouses in Paradise
Fantasy Designs for the 21st Century
by David Greenberg

Well, there I was in Spain not ready to go home but not sure of my next move. I started looking at France, living in France had been a dream of mine. Through searching for house sit opportunities, you know how the internet can be, click here and there. Well a series of clicks and suddenly I was looking at a tree house that needed a caretaker. I had really loved tree houses through a book showing a series of contest photos for a tree house design competition. I saved the page in my 'world travel' bookmark folder beside Professional Hobo, Vagabondish's 8-tools-to-travel-long-term, Ethnologue and, Greenheart travel.

I went to bed dreaming about the house I had seen. I found myself looking at the photos and re-reading the description. There were so many reasons why I couldn't do it. The dates didn't work, I was only one person when they requested two, I didn't even know where Panama was. Still I went on dreaming and day dreaming about the house.

I found two other houses in France that I wanted to message so I bought the membership on housecarers.com, (which I wrongly called house-careers for ages, Freudian slip?) I made a profile and thought of Tim Ferris. In The four hour work week he mentions how easy it is to connect with people through the internet. This was worth a message. If they didn't answer at least I put my foot in.
I'm not afraid to send the first message, not afraid to make contact. Well, actually I am afraid of the pushy-ness, rejection and possibly being ignored. But doing it so often now, putting myself out there for relationships, jobs, travel opportunities. I don't take it personally. If I don't get reciprocation it's not crippling.

So I took a deep breath and wrote:

Hi there,
I saw your post a few months ago and can't stop thinking about it. I now have a friend who would be available to housesit with me but unfortunately not until July. Are you still in need of house sitters that time of year?
Hope you're having a great day,
Samantha

I hit send and let myself forget about it. If I got a reply, great. If I didn't well I had done my part. I had showed up in the way I knew how for my seemingly unattainable dream.

I did get a reply and after a long series of emails from December to June with some phone calls I got on a plane, met up with Jenn and we made our way to The Treehouse.

We were told to follow the dogs and they would take us to a chocolate farm. Seriously! Every time I say this is makes me smile. We have a chocolate farm as a neighboring property and they do tours and show how they make their heavenly natural chocolate.

So there I was with Jenn on a tour with a group of students studying monkeys with a primatologist. Lloyd, the person who set up the tour, connecting the primatologist with the chocolate farm asked how I'd come to be here. As I was explaining I mentioned that almost all the previous house sitters had been asked to house sit other properties in the surrounding area. They were always finding a reason to stay.  "That's actually why I was asking." He said "We're looking for house sitters over at our place"

After chatting through a lot of the excursion I checked out the website and sent an introduction email right that night. I wanted to email him who I was, show him I was serious by getting in touch right away, and make sure I would make a good fit. I asked to see the contract or an outline of responsibilities. After some back and forth emails I was invited to come for two days to really see for myself what the responsibilities were and most important, if I got along with the dogs!

I've been planning on coming home to Toronto. So excited to re-unite and actually looking forward to Autumn followed by snow. I'm sure that people back home will understand though that this is an opportunity I can't refuse. From what I've seen so far Casa Cayuco is a slice of paradise. White sandy beaches, well maintained jungle paths preserving the natural beauty of the rainforest, mouthwatering flavourful meals and a guarantee that only people who appreciate the lifestyle it provides will be the ones you paddle board, snorkel, surf and explore with.

I most enjoyed laying in a hammock beside the water listening to the calm sea. Enjoying a morning coffee on the beach looking at the horizon and seeing mountains far off in the distance. I had jokingly complained to Jenn "It's not completely perfect, there are no mountains." She nodded in agreement as we waded in the warm water of the beach the first night. Then as I was sipping my coffee in the morning Lloyd said "If you take your coffee out on the dock it's clear enough now to see the mountains in the distance" I swore under my breath and could not ignore that I'd love to call this place home for the next three months.

I understand now completely why this special area of Panama was compared to Hotel California upon arrival "you can go, but you can never leave" Thankfully my visa does have an expiration so I will be taking the big bird in the sky back to Toronto but not until January 2013.

The day to day in Panama

A praying mantis visits our vlog

In catching up on stories about Paris I've been leaving out details about Panama. Jenn and I have been doing a fun nightly Vlog that we're already excited to look back on. It's probably funniest for us. Now, how to explain Dolphin Bay, Bocas del Toro...

Me with a Kinkajou

A paradise to look at, with a great community feel. I have come in contact with more bugs and animals then ever before. I've gotten acquainted with a kinkajou, a possum, cicadas, dolphins, birds, snakes, fish, leaf bugs of all sorts, howler monkeys, sloths, ants galore, dogs and horses. Everyone that lives out here is a character with an amazing warm heart. Everyone looks out for each other here and together the cruisers and expats have made a welcoming Bay.

The view from the tree house

I usually wake up between 6-7am and enjoy a coffee as I look out onto the Bay. Jenn and I like to take in the view as we listen to the morning Net, a radio show that everyone in the area participates in. Sometimes we play a game of cribbage and are usually content just making fun of the trivia questions. We're the youngest house sitters in the area and the questions are usually about things 'before our time' and prefaced with "this is an easy one". (If it's so easy why do only two people ever participate with answers?) So sometimes we'll shout out ridiculous answers just for our own enjoyment.

Rana Azul "parking lot"

 The rest of the day is filled with house sitting duties (general clean up, walking the grounds, maintaining the solar batteries, feeding the dogs, paperwork for the worker) reading, writing, learning something new about sail boats, socializing and exploring the area. Every Wednesday there's a game of Mahjong but we've only been a couple times. Every Sunday the restaurant Rana Azul is open and it's a great way to see everyone in the area to catch up, enjoy some drinks and buy eggs. That's right, we buy our eggs when we go out to the restaurant from another patron who has hens. The weekly supply sells out pretty fast so we try to get there by noon.

Watching friends watch dolphins

We go into town to get our gas, propane, and food supply once a week. We use the propane for the stove and fridge. The gas is for the boat and generator. Our boat Cricket recently had some problems so we've been relying on the kindness of others to take us into town. We've had enough sun that we've only had to run the generator when we equalized the batteries for the solar energy.

The Treehouse

Jenn and I call this place the Treehouse. It's raised off the ground and level with the canopy of the surrounding trees. It's completely off the grid, running off solar power with a back up generator to use when needed. There are two huge water tanks that catch the rainwater that is collected from the large circular roof. We were happy to discover that if we're not catching sun, we're catching rain and always replenishing our basic needs. The washing machine runs off the solar energy and all the rain water is filltered first through a regular sieve to catch debris and then though a filter. Sometimes we put the rain water through another filter before drinking but we usually drink right from the tap.

A Troller (left) and a Panga (right)

The only way to get around here is by boat. There are no roads in the jungle and we're lucky to have a few well maintained foot paths. Jenn and I kayak around from time to time and love to visit the boats in our bay. That's right, only here 45 days and we're calling it "Our Bay". We've had a few cruiser dinners, pot lucks and juice bars where we've invited newcomers and returning boats up to the Treehouse so we can brush up on our sailing vernacular.